Monday, October 31, 2005

Church of the Sojourners


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Sunday night I attended a worship gathering with a church community called the Church of the Sojourners. I have met some of their members at different gatherings over the past 2 years, so it was nice to visit them. They own a string of houses in the Misson District of San Fran, a primarily hispanic neighborhood. Similar to the Church of the Servant King, whom I visited in Eugene, OR, they believe that to be the Church means more than worshipping together once a week. They live with one another, share their resources, and literally love their neighbors.
After the worship gathering I hung out with a group of folks from the group who are my age. We talked shop about community life and I had the chance to share about my bicycle journey.
This is a picture of Katie and Dan, who hosted me for the night. They take hospitality seriously...I had my own room with a basket with shampoo and snacks. They even packed me some food to take with me this morning. Many thanks to these good folks.
I just found out that there was an article in The Christian Century on "New Monasticism" that mentions a lot the communities I've visited as well as the Camden House. Check it out if you're interested. Click here.http://www.christiancentury.org/article.lasso?id=1399

Sunday, October 30, 2005

Mr. Roberto


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is my buddy Rob from Illinois. He's going San Francisco University studying Asian Pacific Studies. He spent the last 2 years teaching in China. I hadn't seen him in awhile and when I pulled up I said, "You look good Roberto." Rob, never one to mince words said, "You look like you've been on the road awhile." This is a picture of us after I got cleaned up.

I'm planning on staying here until Tuesday, which will give me 12 days to get to San Diego. I'm looking forward to taking in the city and resting up.

San Francisco


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I spent Friday night in Bodega Bay camping at the Dunes State Park. I woke up excited Saturday morning because I knew I'd be in San Francisco by the end of the day. But the day kept getting better...the weather was warm, sunny and the winds were blowing south. It was the kind of day that made me forget how difficult the last few days had been.

I took this picture as I came over the Golden Gate Bridge into San Fran.

Traveling Community


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Since hitting the West Coast, I've felt like I've had a bit of a consistent community along the way. There are a few bikers who I've crossed paths with more than once...I'll catch up after a taking some rest days or vise versa.

Yesterday I was fixing a flat on the side of the road next to a kite shop and I heard, "Jeremy!". It was the "Fun Bunch" that I had met back in Washington (the group of older women). They got sick of the rain and hills, and jumped in their van to head farther south before continuing biking again. They were telling the owner of the shop how proud they were on me and how I had become like their son on the road.

I've noticed that a lot of the people in cars respect how difficult the biking is along Highway 1. A lot of people pump their fists in support or give a little honk to show their support when they pass. One older couple stopped to introduce themselves. They said, "We've seen you every day as we've been travelling the coast, we feel like we know you."

Rain, Rain Go Away


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Thursday and Friday brought more rain and wind. I must admit that it was one of the more difficult stretches of the journey...10 days since my last rest day, soaking wet and difficult roads. Highway 1 is a beautiful road, but there is little or no shoulder most of the time, blind corners and steep climbs. I find that riding in the rain often puts me in a zone because I know if I stop for too long I'll be too cold to keep going...so the fatigue and cold doesn't hit until the end of the day. But looking at the passing drivers with white knuckles and clenched teeth constantly reminded me of how intense the roads were. This picture shows some of these crazy curves.

Many people compare this area (South Mendicino County and South North Sonoma County) to Scotland and Ireland...high cliffs, sheep grazing, and of course rainy/foggy. It was beautiful when I had the chance to take it in.

Totally California


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Every time I saw this sign it made me laugh, so I decided to take a picture of it.

Throughout the rest of the country you signs like this that say, "No engine braking within town limits...subject to $100 fine".

The California coast uses much more of the surfer tone. I was thinking they should change it to "Yo, easy on the engine brake bro!"

Thursday, October 27, 2005

The Rest of the Route


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is the last of the maps down to San Deigo...about 620 miles from San Fran to San Diego via bike-friendly roads. If anybody has any hospitality options on any of these coastal towns, please don´t hesitate to let me know. I hear that it´s a little harder to find a spot to camp further south...plus meeting new people always gives me something to look forward to. E-mail me at jeremysullivan40@hotmail.com or give a call (609)280-9530.

San Fran to Santa Barbara


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Heading for San Fran


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Right now I´m in Point Arena, about 130 miles from San Franciso...I plan to be there by Saturday.

California Sunset


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

The clouds cleared last night, giving way for a beautiful sunset.

Best Downhill


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Wednesday I got on Highway 1, which hugs the coast. It started with a gnarly steep climb and then a 2000' descent, with "S" curves all the way down to the ocean.

Avenue of the Giants


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

On Tuesday I ended my ride on what's called the Avenue of the Giants, which passes through the Humbolt Redwoods State Park. Up until that point I was fighting a headwind and it was starting to rain. But once I hit the Avenue it was like I entered a huge cathedral...still, silent and dark. This is a picture I took the next morning.

Unfortunately the campground I stayed in that night wasn't as protected by trees...it was right on a river. It rained pretty hard all night. I thought I'd be all slick and set up my tent, take a shower and then jump into my sleeping bag all warm. But my plan backfired...my tent collapsed while I was gone and everything got wet. I don't think I've been completely dry since I hit the coast. My stuff is starting to smell the way my gym uniform did in junior high...during the wrestling unit in particular.

Tuesday, October 25, 2005

Arcata


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

First off, this picture didn't quite turn out as I had hoped. In case you can't tell it's my bike in front of a big old redwood.
Last night I pulled into the town of Arcata, CA. I had heard that it was a college town, home of Humbolt State University. I soon discovered that it had a very prominent street culture...a sort of meeting place for old hippies and young transients. Many of whom were so tripped out that they couldn't hold a conversation. I read an article in the local paper in which the University present referred to the town as a "drug haven". I would venture to say that Arcata has more dreadlocks per capita than any other U.S. city.
As I got to town I started asking if there was a chill place to set up my tent. I discovered that no matter what you ask, most people's first response is, "You're looking for herb?" I later found out that it is common knowledge that homeless folks stay just out of town in the Redwood State Park, even though camping is prohibited and strictly enforced.
A kid working at a corner store sat down with me while I drank a hot chocolate and gave me the down low on the town. He said, "The old hippies from the 70's are all about peace, love and respect. But the younger ones are kind of sketch...they just dress like hippies to get more money from people."
The scene at the Redwood Park intrigued me more than it scared me, so I ventured up the hill in the dark. I got there about 11pm, not sure what underground rules were. Some kids informed me that you have to go deep into the forest to set up a tent, in fact there's a whole village back there. Luckily I ran into an older guy who took me under his wing. He carried his belongings in what appeared to be a trumpet case.
He methodically gave me different options, weighing the odds of being seen by early morning dog walkers vs. intruding on other people's space. He was also very meticulous about me getting 9 hours of sleep and having a very level spot to sleep on. He led me through the woods, which he had memorized, saying "OK turn 45 degrees to the right at the stump and then 52 steps forward 'green beret style'".
Sure enough he found me a good spot and I layed under the canopy of huge trees with just my tarp and sleeping bag. It was quite the process just to get some sleep but the whole experience was worth it.
I just bought a plane ticket from San Diego to Philly for Saturday November 12. Pray that they rest of the trip allows me to make it home without a hitch.

Monday, October 24, 2005

The Redwoods


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

At one point today I stopped to touch one of these massive specimen of creation. I figure it's the oldest living thing I've ever been in contact with...they live up to 2000 years. I've tried to articulate the experience but I think John Steinbeck does a better job:

"The redwoods once seen, leave a mark or create a vision that stays with you always...from them comes silence and awe. The most irreverent of men, in the presence of redwoods, goes under the spell of wonder and awe."

Humble


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

In the letter that I received on Sunday, my housemate Elissa shared with me that the spiritual connotation of the name Jeremy is "Humble". This was fresh on my mind this morning when I immediately encountered a steep 1000' climb under the canopy of the biggest trees I have ever seen. Needless to say, I felt very small....humbled.

Biking through the Redwoods was quite possibly the most awesome (in the literal sense of the word) scenes I have come across on this whole trip.

I once hiked through a rainforest in Alaska with my cousin Kevin. When we first entered the trail he looked around and in most sincere voice said, "Pardon my French but this place is fucking awesome." If I could ever steal this profound statement, today would be the day.

Incognito Pick Up


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I was expecting a general delivery letter when I crossed into California. The problem was that it corresponded with a Sunday. I called the local post office and explained the situation. Not only did they trust me over the phone, but they went out of their way to hide the letter in this dumpster for me. Forget all those stereotypes about postal workers.

Milestones and Canucks


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Sunday turned out to be a day of milestones. First, it marked 5 months since I left Camden. Secondly, I crossed into California, achieving my original goal: Camden to California. Lastly, I told those who were willing to sponsor me that I would be travelling 3000 miles. I knew this was a conservative estimate, but I didn't know by how much. Well, I've now gone 6000 miles...twice my prediction. I never chose a destination city, in order to give myself the freedom to explore at my own pace. Right now I plan to be in San Francisco by the weekend. Ideally I'd like to end up in San Diego. I plan to return to Camden about 2 weeks before Thanksgiving.

Sunday I also ran into a fun group of Canadians. We rode together most of the day and then camped out together in Crescent City, CA. It was a nice change of pace, but it reminded me how easy it is travelling alone...a concensus of 5 takes a lot longer than 1. The three women in the group work as forest fire fighters in the summer and travel the rest of the year. One of the guys Jarrett boasted that he saved up enough money working at a mico-brewery to have not worked in 23 months...and counting. They're on their way down to the Baja. We're all looking forward to that warm California sun.

Gold Beach


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Saturday night I stayed in a town called Gold Beach. As I was crossing the bridge into town I heard these obnoxious sounds. It turned about to be a posse of seals who like to hang out on the pier next to the harbor.
The only available camping in the vicinity was a cookie cutter RV park that charged $20 per night. I couldn't justify that kind of cash for a piece of land to lay my tent, so I waited until dark and camped on the beach. I'm still struggling to be an early riser, even when I have to...so by the time I emerged from my tent in the morning, people were walking by giving me strange looks.

Saturday, October 22, 2005

Bandon


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

My destination last night was Bandon, OR. I had a very interesting first impression of the town. There is one big intersection in town. On one side of the street there was a group of people waving American flags and holding signs that said "Support Our Troops". They were very vocal trying to get people to honk. I actually got whacked by a couple of zealous flag wavers who had overtaken the bike lane. On the other side of the street was a group of people wearing black. The stood in silence and held a sign that read, "Justice Without War"...my heart stood in solidarity with them.
I had heard of a hostel right on the water. I got there at the same time as 2 other guys who were also traveling down the coast. There were only 2 beds left. Fortunately the woman at the desk agreed to let me sleep on the floor...and hooked me up with a nice discount.
I went out for a couple of beers with my roommates. Ronald is from Holland. He started his travels in Alaska and is making his way to Costa Rica. He met up with Alex in Seattle, an Englishman who bought a car in Boston and traveled across Canada and is now making his way to South America. We went to a "towny" bar that had a cover band playing and slot machines in the corner. Both of my companions thought it was a trip. They kept asking, "Is this a typical scene in America?". Alex, an Engineer by profession, was constantly analyzing things and comparing them to "back home". Ronald was more of a laid back Dutchman who sat back with a smile on his face bobbing his head to the music.
I took this picture this morning. I've come to really appreciate the sunshine. Even though every day is a weekend to me, there's nothing like going for a bike ride on a sunny Saturday morning.

Friday, October 21, 2005

Katie


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is Katie. I met her when I was hanging around with the folks at Church of the Servant King in Eugene. She met me this morning on the coast in Florence. She biked with me for about 30 miles and then biked back to her car because she has to work tonight.
She's originally from Palatine, IL. She's quite the biker. She went to Indiana University and was part of the Little 500 madness. For those of you who aren't familiar with the event, it's a bike relay race on a track. All members of the team use the same single gear bike. I had the chance to witness it once when I was visiting a friend there. Who knew that Indiana is a biking mecca?
It was nice to have Katie's company...she has some good insight. She works at a shelter for kids between the ages of 11 and 17 who are homeless. She was also very curious about what's going on in Camden. Not to mention she left me with all kinds of treats.

Moment of Clarity


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I like this picture because it's one of the few I have with clear skies. If you look closely you'll see a lighthouse on the cliff.

Into the Fog


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I've encountered fog at some point each day. Often times there will be dense fog at the top of a climb and then clear at the bottom of the hill.

Laundry Partner


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is the my partner in crime at the laundrymat in Tillamook. I took this picture because I liked his sweatshirt...interesting juxtaposition of the old guy with long gray hair wearing gangsta garb. Plus if he saw me take his picture it would have given him another reason to yell at me.

Thursday, October 20, 2005

Coasting Along


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

It rained for about 24 hours straight after I wrote 2 days ago. I hung out in the local Tillamook Laundrymat to keep warm...plus it gave me the chance to catch up the telenovelas on the Spanish channel. The only other person in there was a rough-looking old fella who I think had the same idea as me. In fact, I think I was invading his territory because he kept telling me to move my stuff. I don't think he was all there because he smelled like he had been hitting grandpa's cough medicine pretty hard.
I set up my tent in town next to the Catholic church. I appreciate the priest letting me do so, but I was disappointed that he only gave me 30 seconds of this time.
I had a great ride Wednesday, rain and all. The smell of the ocean alone did it for me, not to mention the cliffs and fog and sand dunes. Plus I knew I had a warm place to stay at the end of the day.
My buddy Tim (the one who got married this summer) contacted me Wednesday morning. He started by confessing that he had only checked my blog 2 times before, but yesterday was one of them. It just so happens that his new in-laws have a place in Newport, OR...my destination for the day. The place was beautiful, you could see the ocean from the back deck. There was a woman named Joya who rents the place. She basically gave me the place to myself all night and was kind enough to make me breakfast in the morning. She is a traveler herself, so she was excited to help me out.
Tim and I aren't the best at communicating with eachother, but we always seem to be in sync with our timing. We forget eachother's birthday every year, but we always randomly call within a day or two anyway. The timing yesterday is just another example. I called him this morning to thank him and he said, "Sully, God always takes care of you man." He's right.

Tuesday, October 18, 2005

Oregon Coast


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Today I cycled about 80 miles from Portland to Tillamook, Oregon. I had to cross the Coastal range...a strip of mountains I didn't know existed until a few days ago. Tommorrow I will head south down Highway 101 down the Coast.

Old Friends


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is the Dronsfield family: Dan and his girlfriend Adriana, and John and Cheryl (parents). They took me out to dinner Monday night. I stayed with John and Cheryl Friday night but Dan Adriana had just gotten into town.
Dan is an aspiring film maker. He shoots his stuff on 8mm film. He leaves tommorrow for his first film festival in Hawaii...remember his name.
Being with them brought back a lot of memories from when I was a kid. They say smell is associated with memory. When I went to bed and smelled the sheets, it brought me back to being a kid sleeping over at their house.
John gave me a ride back to Portland this morning (he had business there). He even bought me breakfast before we parted. Many thanks to these good friends.

Church of the Servant King


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Saturday through Monday I stayed with some folks who I had met two summers ago at a gathering about the New Monasticism. They call themselves the Church of the Servant King. Like the early Church they live in community and make sure there are no needs among them. They have about 6 houses, all within a few blocks of eachother. Each house is a mix families and single people. They own a building with a coffee shop (called Theo's--see picture), bookstore, organic pizza shop and they run a publishing company. Almost everyone is involved in these ventures, which sustain them financially.
Everyone went out of their way to make me feel welcome...inlcuding a bike tour of the city and some good meals. I stayed in one of their extra rooms that they reserve for hospitality...there was even a bottle of fancy water and trail mix on my bed (like a hotel).
I attended their worship gathering on Sunday night. It began with breaking of bread and burritos and ended with a trip to the micro-brewery for refreshments afterwards...not to mention a beautiful liturgy in between.

Pre's Rock


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is the spot where Pre died. It's known as Pre's Rock. I did a run from the University to Pre's trail and then up a long hill to the rock. It felt right to be sweaty and out of breath as I took in the site.
I heard that his car flipped and landed on top of him. People speculate that he was able to hold up the car for awhile with his incredible strength but ultimately it was too much before anyone arrived. That night he was dropping off his friend Frank Shorter after a party, which was a celebration of the first meet that Pre had organized.

Saturday, October 15, 2005

Prefontaine


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Hayward Field (Oregon's Track) is known as the "house that Pre built". Steve Prefontaine was one of the great hopes of American distance running in the 70's. He's drawn a lot of attention because he died in a car accident in 1975 here in Eugene and everyone has wondered 'what if' ever since. Both my high school and college coaches were big fans of Pre, so I've learned a lot about him over the years.
It is said that physiologically he wasn't all that impressive. In fact, I used to volunteer for studies in college at the local VA hospital to make some quick cash. One of the pulmonologists had worked with Pre in the 70's and told me that my VO2 max was actually slightly higher than Pre's. Some say his ability came from an incredible pain tolerance and a lot of courage.

Tracktown USA


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Eugene is known as one of the running meccas of the country. I had to take a visit to the Oregon University track...one of the rare venues that packs 17,000 people together for a track meet. In fact, it was just decided yesterday that they will host the Track and Field Olympic Trials for 2008.

Eugene


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Eugene is an Oregon town that was definitely intriguing to me. My dilemma was that I knew if I cycled south to Eugene I would miss half of the Oregon coast (another priority). I decided I would compromise by a taking a bus ride down to Eugene and then head back up to Portland and hit the coast on my bike again.
I called some old family friends, Dronsfields, in Eugene to see if I could meet up with them. Their sons Dan and Drew are the same ages as my brother Dan and I. They moved to Eugene when I was 12 and I haven't seen them since. I talked to Mrs. Dronsfield and found out that Drew is a dive master in Malaysia and Dan is at a 'barter fest' in Tonasket, WA (a town I biked through). They invited me out nonetheless. In fact, Mr. Dronsfield picked me up in Portland on his way home from a business trip in Seattle. I had a great time catching up on the last 14 years with them. I'm going to stick around until Tuesday morning so that I can see Dan and catch a ride back to Portland with Mr. Dronsfield.

Save the Farm


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Everyone who lives on the farm, lives as a tenant. Last year the landlord decided he wanted to sell the land to a developer for 1.5 million dollars. The farm is more than a place to live...it's a way of life and a model of sustainablity. So everyone who lives there (16 people in all) decided to save the farm themselves.
They started by raising $125,000 to buy the purchasing agreement from a local contracter who planned to build on it. They now have until January to come up with the rest of the 1.5 million. They've held fund raisers and received $100,000 from the city of Portland. They've recently achieved status as a non-profit organization and are applying for grants. If you interested in learning about their situation or donating to save the farm, check out their web site: tryonfarm.org

Permaculture


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Tryon Farm in Portland follows a design/philosophy known as permaculture, which stands for permanent sustainable agriculture. The design is set up in way that mimics nature. Nature has tools that protect it from catastrophe. One of these is diversity in space (shape, size, physical pattern). For example, if a hurricane hits a trailer park, the trailers blow away, but the mice, bacteria and elements of different size remain. Whereas, a plague of cats strikes at the scale of mice, leaving the trailers and bacteria unscathed.
So on the farm most of the vegetables aren't planted in rows, but rather in groups that benefit one another. Vegetables that require shade are planted under the fruit trees and beans are planted next to the corn so that they can grow up the corn stalks. My description doesn't quite do justice to the concept...but it makes a lot of sense to me.
By the way this picuture is of a sauna that is almost complete. It was built as a natural building experiment, made out of cob.

My Digs on the Farm


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is the walled tent I got to stay in on the farm....I only had to share it with the slugs that would creep through the door while I was gone. I've come to appreciate the opportunities I've had to have my own space in certain places. Although I have my own tent, it's hard to do anything other than sleep in it.
The farm backs up to a state park so Friday I had the chance to go for a run on some sweet trails.

Thursday, October 13, 2005

Portland


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I made it to Portland last night. I called up a woman that I met at Rabbitstick, who lives on a farm within the city limits. Her housemate gave me "bike directions" over the phone. You can get anywhere in this city via bike lanes. I've noticed there's a distinct respect between drivers and bikers here. When I went to hang up I said, "Thanks for the directions" and Brenna said, "Thanks for being a biker"...I knew I was going to the right place.
Everyone who lives at Tryon Farm (where I'm staying) agrees to live in community. As I sat at the dinner table last night it reminded me a lot of our community in Camden..even the food. After dinner I sat quietly trying to match up characters from their community that reminded me of certain people in my community.
I'm staying in a walled tent that belongs to a guy named Kerrke who is off practing primitive skills. This morning I was able to earn my keep by stacking a big delivery of wood for the winter.
I spent the rest of the day biking around the city discovering many hidden treasures. The picture above is of a bicycle co-op. I also bought a new helmet today because mine has officially fallen apart. It was the only helmet I've ever owned...given as a Christmas gift from my sister Katie many moons ago. I hate to see it go but the new one feels so darn good.

Lumber Country


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is a shot I took as I was crossing the Columbia River into Oregon. I swear the air smells like wood everywhere in Oregon. I find it interesting that any town within 5 miles of a saw mill has wood chips in the gutter. I also got a nice glimpse of Mt. St. Helens to the east but the picture I took doesn't do it justice.
Ever since Montana I've noticed an interesting juxtapostion that exists in many small western towns: the 'old school' folks who have always depended on natural resource-based economies like lumber and mining; living next to people who have moved to these remote areas to live in harmony with the land. One sees the land as a way to make a living, while the other would like to see the land heal from years of damage. Most believe that nature will naturally heal itself if we give it the chance. In the midst of these differences, it's interesting to see how some folks are able to come together as a community and others are polarized.

Tuesday, October 11, 2005

Route Update


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Monday I left Seattle via ferry to Bremmerton (see map). I started making my way south down the Peninsula again. Instead of heading straight for Astoria, OR, I will cross the Columbia River in a town called Longview, WA and head for Portland...where I should be tommorrow (Wednesday).

Down Mothertrucker


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Last night I stopped in a town called Elma for dinner. By the time I finished it was completely dark and foggy as all get out. There was nowhere to camp in Elma but I heard I could camp for free behind the grocery store 7 miles down the road.
So I set out in the fog, following the river with a light attached to my helmet.
I was almost there when all of a sudden three dogs come bolting after me from a farm yard. In the deepest, scariest voice I could muster I yelled, "DOWN...DOWN MOTHERTRUCKER!" Those dogs must have sensed my wrath because all three of them immediately stopped in their tracks.
As I continued down the road and the adrenaline wore off, I laughed out loud that in my fight or flight response, I chose to use the word "mothertrucker". Why not, it's a great word. In fact I used it again today with a few dogs...successful each time.
As you can see from this picture, it was still foggy this morning...eeirily beaufiful.

The Fun Club


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Yesterday I was biking along and all I could see was a cluster of bright green and I heard a bunch of clapping. It ends up they were cheering for me. They were in the midst of tour along the coast. Quite an interesting group of women. One just turned 70 and another recently had a knee replacement. They were having a lot of fun. They were very motherly, very interested in the details of my trip and constantly saying, "I'm so proud of you." They even gave me their cell phone number in case I needed something down the road.

The Cupping Experience


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Sunday morning Emily and I stumbled upon what is called a "cupping" at this coffee shop called Victrola. It's kind of like a wine tasting, but with coffee. Here's the process:
1. Smell the dry ground beans
2. Add water that is exactly 200 degrees and let it sit 4 minutes
3. Scrape the crust off the top of the cup, stick your nose in there and take a big wiff
4. Take a spoonful of coffee and make a ridiculous slurping sound in order to aspirate it into your nose and mouth

Most people took notes during the process, keeping track of all the flavors they sensed. I just started drinking coffee on this trip, so it all tasted like...coffee. So I took notes on what everyone was saying, which was much more interesting.
There were baristas from the cafe walking around to discuss the experience. I think we had the most interesting one. He was wearing a black t-shirt, which in pink letters said, "Victrola coffee makes you gay". He talked very passionately about how, "the sultry full body Brazil Cerrado makes a perfect base for the expresso blend." He then compared it to the Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, which "makes you go oooh with its fruity high notes...making a great drip coffee."
The fella in this picture, Tony was a wealth of information about coffee. He informed me that coffee is the 2nd most traded product internationally, next to oil. He explained that buying more for a high end coffee and knowing where your coffee comes from insures that money is actually going to the farmers who grow it. He also said beware of the shops posing as high end (Starbucks) who are often disconnected from their farmers.

Emily


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is Emily (as you can see she's a little camera shy). She took good care of me while I was in Seattle...she even showed me where the secret key was hidden to her house so I could come and go. She gave me the unofficial tour of Seattle, which includes the house where Kurt Cobaine committed suicide and the local co-op. She's currently studying to be a yoga teacher and moonlights as a cocktail waitress at a Morrocan restaurant to pay the bills. I just met Emily when I was visiting a friend in Colorado but by the time I left it felt like we were old friends.

Rainier


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

My uncle Bobby (shown in this picture) took me to Rainier National Park on Saturday. We had a great hike, exploring this little glacier they call Mt. Rainier. Highlights include a black bear, an eagle, some deer and a nice milkshake on the way home. Bobby is trying to organize a group to hike to the summit next summer...which might give me a reason to come back.

D-Lance


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is my buddy Dave. We both ran for Marquette back in the day. Dave is in his 2nd year of law school at Seattle University. We went out for a couple of beers on Friday night to catch up on old times. In addition to dedicating his time to being a top notch student and snappy dresser, Dave finds time to help coach his old cross country team in Bellevue, WA (just across Lake Washington from Seattle).

Friday, October 07, 2005

Seattle


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Wednesday I bike 90 miles down the Penninsula from Anacortes to Bainbridge Island and then took a short ferry ride into Seattle. I was able to get in touch with a new friend Emily, who I had met in Colorado when I was visiting my friend Libby at Guidestone Farm. Emily was visiting Libby's roommate that weekend and invited me to stay with her if I made it to Seattle.
On Thursday she showed me around the city. She explained that the personality of each neighborhood is often captured by the local coffee shop. The one we went to in her neighborhood, a predominately gay community, had a cupcake theme. I decided on a chocolate cupcake with pink frosting and coconut on top. I'm finding Seattle to be an interesting city...very hip, but it seems to lacking the diversity you find in the East.
Last night I met up with my uncle Bobby who's lived here for about 5 years. He's the project manager on a series of buildings being built on the University of Washington campus. He promised me the best salmon I've ever had...and he was right on. It was great to hang out with him and catch up on old times. He's given me free range of his apartment, so I've been taking advantage of having my own space.
The plan is to hang out here in the city through the weekend. Tommorrow me and Bobby are going to go for a hike. From here I'll head towards Portland, OR.

Bill and Linda


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

When I was boarding the ferry to Lopez I met Linda, who works on the boat. She was intrigued by bike set-up and the story of my journey. When it came time to get off, one of her co-workers handed me her number and said that she and her boyfriend could give a place to stay in Anacortes. So that night I decided to go back to the mainland and give a call.
Linda welcomed me with open arms and a good meal. She explained to me that she had just moved in with Bill less than a week ago and they were still getting used to eachother's patterns. I wondered how he would react to her inviting strangers crash at his place. But when he came home, he didn't even act surprised. We sat around and chatted like old friends.

Lopez Island


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Tuesday I took a ferry to Lopez, one of the San Juan Islands. I chose Lopez because I heard it was the most bike-friendly of the islands. The culture of Lopez is like a throw back to the fifties blended with progressive America....everybody waves on the road, a lot of white picket fences combined with organic food stores, yoga studios and bumper stickers that say, "Pull Cheney, Flush Bush".
I biked to a an isolated shore of the island (shown in this picture) and watched an interesting interaction between a duck and a seal. The seal would dive down for fish and when it would come up for air, the duck would steal bits of fish from its mouth.

Mr. Frazier


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is a nice man who was kind enough to let me use his pump to fill up a leaky tire when I was cruising around Lopez Island. He called me Mr. Sullivan and I called him Mr. Frazier. He's lived on the island for 32 years. When I met him he was working on his garage doors. His advice to me was, "If you ever buy a house, don't have wooden doors." His words to me as I was riding away were, "I admire your courage...biking across this country." A good man.

The Midnight Dip


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is documentation of dipping my tire at the stroke of midnight October 4, the Feast of St. Francis. The picture was taken by new friend Carlyn who had biked across the country this summer and happened to be camping at the same campground that night.

Sunset Beach in the Daytime


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is the spot where I dipped my tire in the Pacific, Sunset Beach in Anacortes, WA (when you can acually see it).

Northwest Forest


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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

The wet mossy forests here have such a different feel compared to the dry Rockies